Sunset In Sedona Two Needle Socks REVISED!

Sunset In Sedona Two Needle Socks (Revised)

Finished sizes about: 6 ½- 7 (7 ½, 8, 9, 9 ½)” foot circumference.

Yarn used: 1 skein of Aslan Trends Natural Luxury Yarns Santa Fe 1334 yarn from their Kettle Hand Dyed Collection. 50g / 1.75 oz. 85% Merino Wool / 15% Polyamide. Approx: 180 yards / 165 meters

Needles size: One pair of straight needles size US 0-3 (2-3.25 mm) or whatever size is needed to obtain the gauge of 7 stitches per inch in St st. (Personally, I used US size 5 needles to obtain gauge, but I‘m just weird that way).

Other supplies: Some stitch holders or scrap threads to hold stitches on. You may find a row counter to be helpful in keeping track of rows while knitting the heel flap.

Special skills you need to make this sock: Flat seam (aka- Bickford seam)

Leg Portion

Cast on 44 (52, 56, 64, 68) sts. Work a 2 x 2 rib stitch (knit 2, purl 2), for one inch or until you‘re tired of knitting it.

Now, working in stockinette stitch, (knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side), continue until the sock measures 5 inches from the top. (And yes, I know what you are thinking, “It’s just a freaking square. I wanted a sock, not a wonky dishcloth. WTF!” Just hang in there with me, its about to get interesting.)

Dividing Section

 First row:  (With right side facing you), Knit the first 11 (13,14,16,17) stitches. Place these stitches on a stitch holder. Now continue knitting to the end of the row.

Next row: (wrong side) purl 11 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches. Place these stitches on a stitch holder. Continue across remaining stitches.

At this point you should have 22 (26, 28, 32, 34) stitches left on the needle. These stitches will become your instep or top half of your foot. *Please note- it is from this dividing point that you will measure for your foot length.

With 22 (26, 28, 32, 34) stitches now on your needle, continue in stockinette stitch until the piece measures two inches less then your desired total foot length. (You are going to start the next row with the right side facing you. You have been warned!)

Touch Your Toes

 Row 1: (RS) knit 1, skp, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, (knit two stitches together), knit 1.

(* Note- skp means to slip the next stitch, knit the following stitch and then take the slip stitch and pull it over the knit stitch. This creates 1 decrease.)

Row 2: Purl

Repeat these two rows until there are 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) stitches remain. Ending again with right side facing you.

Row 3: (RS) knit 1, skp, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, knit 1

Row 4: Purl 1, p2tog, (purl two together), purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog, purl 1.

Continue these two rows until 2 (4 , 6, 8, 10 ) stitches remain.

Place these stitches on a stitch holder. Cut yarn leaving a nice long tail for weaving.

(See, that was painless. Now for the fun part!)

Take the stitches that have been hanging out on the other two stitch holders, and with both right side facing you, place these stitches onto your needle.

Knit one row. Then purl the next row. (I know, amazing instructions there, right?)

Heel Flap Time

 Row 1: (RS) *Slip 1 stitch pwise, (purl-wise) wyb, (with yarn in back) knit 1; rep from*

Row 2: Slip 1 pwise,  wyf, (with yarn in front) purl to the end.

Repeat these two rows until a total of 22 (26, 28, 32, 34) rows have been made. (And yes, the number of stitches you have on the needle right now is the same as the number of rows you will knit for the heel flap. It was a total freaking mind-blowing epiphany when I realized that!)

Let’s Take This Heel For A Turn

 Row 1: (RS) Knit 13 (15, 16, 18, 19) stitches, skp, k1, turn your work.

Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 pwise, purl 5, p2tog, purl 1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, knit to the 1^st stitch before the gap made from the previous row, skp using the 1^st stitch before the gap and the 1^st stitch right after the gap, K1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, purl to the 1^st stitch before the gap, p2tog using the 1^st stitch both before and after the gap, purl 1, turn.

Now repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the stitches have been worked. Do NOT freak out if you find that you can not end with a knit 1 or purl 1 in your repeats. Depending on your initial cast on number, you may end that last repeat with a skp or a p2tog. Make sure to end with the right side facing you.

Guess What? It’s Gusset Time!

 For this gusset, you will be picking up one extra stitch at the selvage edge corner. I find that adding that extra stitch at the corners helps make for a cleaner sewing edge when the time comes. Don’t you worry though, you will make these extra two stitches disappear shortly after both sides of the gusset in done.

(Of course you can knit this section without the two extra stitches and it will still turn out just fine. It's just something that I like to do. I'm allowed my little quirks from time to time.)

Now, using the needle that your stitches are already on, pick up 12 (14, 15, 17, 18 ) stitches along the salvage edge. Now knit across these stitches and the stitches that were already on your needle.

Once you reach the end of the row, with the same needle, pick up 12 (14, 15, 17, 18 ) stitches on the other side of the salvaged edge. Now, purl across all stitches. (Your stitches will feel and look a bit bunched up on your needles, but don’t fret. Things will start to loosen up in a bit here.)

Knit 11 (13, 14, 16, 17 ) stitches, skp, knit across heel turn stitches, k2tog, then knit the remaining 11 (13, 14, 16, 17 ) stitches.

Next row: Purl

(See, I told you that you would send those two extra stitches away!)

Row 1: (RS) knit 1, skp, knit to last 3, k2tog, knit 1.

Row 2: Purl across row

Repeat these two rows until 22 (26, 28, 32, 34 ) stitches remain.

Now continue in straight St st until piece measures 2 inches less then your desired foot length.

Toe Time!

 Row 1: (RS) knit 1, skp, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, knit 1.

Row 2: Purl

Repeat these two rows until there are 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) stitches remain. Ending again with right side facing you.

Row 3: (RS) knit 1, skp, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, knit 1

Row 4: Purl 1, p2tog, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog, purl 1.

Continue these two rows until 2 (4 , 6, 8, 10 ) stitches remain.

Graft these stitches with the others you have sitting on the stitch holder.

Now you have some hand sewing to do. No moaning allowed. It’s not as hard as you think.

To seam the sock we will NOT be using the mattress stitch and I will tell you why. *Stepping up on top of soapbox* The mattress stitch subtracts rows from the sides of the foot and the back of the leg. Also, it leaves a bulky seam that, even after you steam it down, can still be felt.

Instead, we will close the seams by using the Flat Seam, also sometimes called the Bickford Seam. It makes a flat, clean seam that is almost invisible when done correctly.

The Bickford seam is one of those things that you have to see to understand, so please stop right now, go check out an online video on how to do it, then return to your sock and seam it up. (I’ll still be here waiting when you get back. I promise.)

Once you seamed up your sock, maybe you should seriously consider knitting the other one. Socks are usually better in pairs. (If you just want to relish in your one sock glory, I’m cool with that too. I won't judge.)

So, now you've got both socks knitted and seamed. Guess what? You’re done. Yup, that’s it. You’re finished. Now make like a hockey stick and get the puck out of here!